Tuesday, January 12, 2010. Luxor.

I'm sleeping in later and later now, so to make the 7:00 bus call, I'm eating breakfast somewhat faster. Less witty conversation, and more shoveling, that's my plan.

It's another day on the West Bank. We start at Malkata, the palace of Amenhotep III and his queen, Tiye. It's out behind Medinet Habu, and there really isn't much left of it except the lower two or three layers of mud brick. They're surprised to see us there; tourists seldom visit, maybe because the way the bus lurches fore and aft as it navigates the rolling dirt road. We're there only for a few minutes, enough time to get a sense of the size of the site. As we leave, a hot air balloon sets settles through the dry air, scouting for a place to land.

The next stop was Medinet Habu, but first, a bit of unfinished business from the last trip in 2008. To the west of Malkata is the Muhareb Monastery. A friend of mine back home has Egyptian roots, and the same name as the monastery. I was here in 2008, but didn't get a chance to take any pictures of the place. This time, I shot the building from the road and its road sign, just in case there was any doubt.

On to Medinet Habu, the most colourful temple I've been to, as measured subjectively, and ignoring the temple of Ramesses II at Abydos which is smaller and less complete. You could argue with me, I suppose, but I just like Medinet Habu better. Here's what I looked at: the Migdol, the temple of Amenirdis, the first pylon, the north exterior wall, the west exterior wall, Butehamun's house. (Butehamun was an official who carried out the order to strip the royal burials in the Valley of the Kings in order to finance a war. The remains of his house are within the temple enclosure; you can visit it today – just look for four scalloped columns near the temenos wall.) What else? The south exterior wall, the royal palace, the first court, the second court, the sanctuary with its side rooms, then back out of the temple. Finally: the Graeco-Roman gateways near the site entrance. Clear sunny skies gave us wonderful light for seeing the reliefs and inscriptions. Gayle, Hiram, and I happily snapped scads of pictures before joining the rest of the group who had already retired to the Hapy Habu for lunch.

The Hapy Habu is on a small street that runs by Medinet Habu. This week, construction crews are tearing up the road with heavy diesel-breathing excavators. As a result, our lunch is marked with the nearby sound of construction except when they pause for midday prayers. Today, they serve pigeon to some of the group. I stick with the vegetarian fare: moussaka, hummus, something that looked like tadziki with dill (but wasn't), white beans, and rice. Bananas and oranges for dessert. We got the feeling that the staff is happy for the repeat business.

The pace is starting to wear on some of the group, so instead of returning to the Valley of the Kings, we opt for the less strenuous Valley of the Queens instead. It's still hot, but at least there is somewhat less climbing involved. We see three tombs: Titi, Kha-em-waset, and Seth-her-kopesh-ef. They are in pretty good shape, and feature figures from the Books of the Dead – typically with human bodies and animal heads, usually carrying a knife in each hand. Cool stuff.

Gayle skipped a tomb or two to investigate the cleft of the valley to search for a reported pool of water that is always wet. Usually, the guards keep you from going back there, but today Okashsa reported it was OK. I wasn't with her, but she reports that there is no such pool of water, though there are two walls made of stones and boulders – purpose unknown.

A note to fellow travelers: you cannot bring cameras into the Valley of the Queens or the Valley of the Kings any more. Whatever.